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Training

Crate Training Step by Step (Without the Tears)

A brown and white dog lying calmly on a soft bed inside an open wire crate

A crate can be a dog’s favourite bedroom or a place they dread. The difference is almost entirely in how it is introduced. Done patiently, crate training gives a puppy a safe spot to rest, helps with toilet training, keeps curious dogs out of trouble when you cannot supervise, and makes vet stays and travel less stressful. Done in a rush, it can cause distress. Here is how to do it kindly.

Choosing the right crate

Size matters. The crate should let your dog stand up, turn around and lie down stretched out comfortably. Much bigger than that and a puppy may use one end as a toilet. If you are buying for a puppy who will grow, look for a crate that comes with a divider panel you can move as they get bigger.

  • Wire crates are well ventilated, fold flat and let the dog see out. Draping a blanket over part of the top and sides makes them feel more den-like.
  • Plastic travel crates are more enclosed, which some dogs find cosy. They are also used for many forms of travel.
  • Soft-sided crates are light and handy for calm, crate-trained dogs, but are not suitable for chewers or dogs still learning.

Put the crate somewhere the dog can still feel part of the family, such as a corner of the living room, rather than an isolated utility room.

Stage 1: make the crate a great place

Start with the door fixed open so it cannot swing and startle the dog. Add soft bedding and toss a few treats just inside. Let the dog go in and out freely. Over the next few days, feed meals in or near the crate, moving the bowl further in as the dog gets comfortable. Hide a treat or a favourite chew in there now and then for the dog to discover.

You are aiming for a dog who wanders into the crate on their own to check for goodies or take a nap.

Stage 2: closing the door for seconds, then minutes

When your dog happily eats a meal in the crate, close the door while they eat and open it as soon as they finish. Over several sessions, leave it closed a little longer after the meal. Next, give a long-lasting chew in the crate, close the door, and sit nearby. Then start moving around the room, and eventually step out for short moments.

Sample crate training progression
StepWhat you doMove on when
1Door open, treats and meals insideDog walks in happily by themselves
2Door closed during meals onlyDog finishes eating calmly
3Door closed with a chew, you sit besideDog settles for 5–10 minutes
4You move around and leave the room brieflyDog stays relaxed when you are out of sight
5Short outings of 15–30 minutesDog is calm when you return
6Gradually longer absences, within sensible limitsOngoing

Go back a step whenever the dog struggles. Progress is rarely a straight line, and that is fine.

Night-time crating for puppies

Many people keep the crate in or next to the bedroom for the first weeks so the puppy can hear and smell them. Take the puppy out to toilet just before bed. Young puppies usually cannot hold on all night; a common rule of thumb is roughly one hour per month of age plus one, but individual puppies vary and this is only a guide. If the puppy wakes and whines, take them out to the toilet calmly and quietly, then straight back to bed — no play session.

Over the following weeks, you can gradually stretch the gap between night-time trips as the puppy’s bladder control develops.

How long is too long?

A crate is for resting, not for storing a dog all day. Puppies need frequent toilet breaks, play and company. Adult dogs need exercise, mental activity and social time. If your schedule means long days away, look at alternatives such as a dog walker, a trusted neighbour, doggy day care or a safe, dog-proofed room or pen. Welfare guidance in several countries sets limits on crating, so check what applies where you live.

Mistakes to avoid

  • Using the crate as punishment. Sending a dog to the crate after they misbehave makes it a place of worry.
  • Letting the dog out while they are crying. This can teach that crying opens the door. Wait for a brief pause, or go back a step so the dog is not overwhelmed in the first place. If the dog is panicking, let them out calmly and slow down the training.
  • Leaving collars with tags or loose items in the crate that could catch on the wire.
  • Rushing. A few extra days of preparation can save weeks of unhappiness.

Some dogs, particularly those with separation-related distress, find confinement very hard. Signs include frantic scratching or biting at the crate, heavy drooling, and continuous howling. If you see these, stop crate training and talk to your vet or a qualified behaviourist.

Frequently asked questions

Should I put water in my dog’s crate?

For short periods most healthy adult dogs do not need water in the crate, but for longer stretches or hot weather a spill-proof bowl or crate-mounted bottle is a good idea. For young puppies, many people remove water an hour or so before bedtime to help with night-time toilet control; ask your vet what suits your puppy.

Should the crate be covered?

Many dogs like a partly covered crate because it feels den-like and blocks visual distractions. Leave at least one side open for airflow and make sure the cover cannot be pulled inside and chewed.

Is crate training necessary?

No. It is a useful tool, especially for puppies and travel, but plenty of dogs live happily without a crate. A safe, dog-proofed room or pen can serve the same purpose.