Litter Box Setup That Works: Number, Size, Place and Litter

Litter box problems are among the most common reasons cats end up in shelters, and yet many of them can be prevented with a few simple choices. Cats are clean, private and particular about their toilet. When a box is too small, too dirty, in the wrong place or filled with a litter they dislike, they may simply look elsewhere. Getting the setup right from the start saves a lot of stress for everyone.

How many litter boxes do you need?

The most widely used rule of thumb is one box per cat plus one extra. So one cat gets two boxes, and two cats get three. The boxes should be in different places, not lined up side by side in one room — to a cat, two boxes next to each other can look like one big toilet.

In multi-cat homes, extra boxes reduce competition and make it harder for one cat to guard the toilet from another. In a house with several floors, it helps to have at least one box on each level.

Size and style

Many commercial litter boxes are smaller than cats would prefer. A common guideline is a box around one and a half times the length of your cat from nose to base of tail, so they can turn around and dig comfortably. Large plastic storage boxes, with a low entry cut into one side, make roomy and inexpensive litter boxes.

Kittens and older cats with stiff joints need a low entry. If your senior cat has started going just outside the box, the height of the side may be the problem.

Location, location, location

Put boxes in quiet, easy-to-reach places where the cat will not be ambushed or startled. Good spots have two ways in and out so a cat does not feel trapped. Avoid:

• Right next to food and water bowls
• Beside noisy appliances such as washing machines or boilers that may start suddenly
• Busy hallways or near the dog’s bed
• Places the cat cannot reach at all times, like a room where the door is sometimes closed

Choosing a litter

Many cats prefer a fine-grained, unscented, clumping litter, which feels closer to the sand or soil they would naturally use. Heavily perfumed litters and scented liners smell pleasant to us but can put some cats off. Fill the box to a depth of around five centimetres (two inches) so there is enough to dig.

If you want to change litter type, do it gradually by mixing increasing amounts of the new litter into the old, or offer the new litter in an extra box and see which your cat chooses. Clumping clay litters are not generally recommended for very young kittens who may eat litter; ask your vet what suits your kitten.

A cleaning routine cats approve of

• Scoop at least once a day, ideally twice
• Top up litter after scooping to keep a good depth
• Empty and wash the box regularly with warm water and mild, unscented soap — strong disinfectants and ammonia-based cleaners can deter cats
• Replace plastic boxes when they become scratched, as scratches hold odour
• Clean any accidents outside the box with an enzyme cleaner to remove the scent completely
• Wash your hands after cleaning; pregnant people should ask their doctor about litter box precautions

When accidents happen

If a cat stops using the box, think of it as a message, not bad behaviour. Never punish or rub a cat’s nose in it; that only increases stress. Start with a vet visit, because medical problems such as urinary tract disease, bladder inflammation, constipation, kidney disease, diabetes or arthritis can all cause toileting changes.

Some signs need urgent attention. A cat — especially a male cat — who repeatedly strains in the litter box and produces little or no urine may have a urinary blockage, which is a life-threatening emergency. Contact a vet straight away.

Once medical causes are ruled out, look at the setup: number of boxes, cleanliness, litter type, location, and any new stress in the home such as a new pet, visitors, building work or a neighbourhood cat at the window.